Our first siting of a youngling fruit badger! Ahhh such a cutey learning the ways of fruit! Thanks for your picture Cheryl and Lenny.
Sunday, December 11, 2011
Thursday, October 20, 2011
Now Taking Your Pictures of Fruit Badger Sitings!
Send in your photos of sitings of the elusive fruit badger! Add to the much needed knowledge of this secretive animal! Send them to j_iott@hotmail.com. Thanks!
Sunday, September 11, 2011
Late Summer Update
Well how the heck did it get to be September already? Again this summer in Portland, we had a cool wet early summer, with rain and cool temps (nights in the low 50's) up until July, and even July was mild. Only now in the beginnings of September, are we having 'warmer than average' temps with highs in the 90's. Ah, can't really win with Climate Change, but I guess be satisfied with what you get. We certainly are lucky to have plenty of water, unlike much of the rest of the country.
So, below are the latest and greatest of our now two year old baby orchard. Overall I am very happy with its progress, and have two trees which I call challenged, which required heading back again this winter, in order to achieve the first flush of growth that would give us our structural branches. One is our Akane, a relatively new variety that only produced a single, long water sprout last year. The other was our Klapp's Favorite Pear, which did the same thing, bearing only moderate, lop-sided new growth. I am happy to report that both are doing fine and have produced abundant new choices of growth after a second heading cut this winter past.
I was able to expand the diameter of the irrigation tubing around each of the trees by adding an additional 10' to each tree. The picture below gives an idea of what I am talking about.
As you can see, I have tried to get water to as much of the root zone as possible. This size ring with probably be good for the next 3-4 years, at which time I may add another 10-20 feet. These emitter tubing type irrigation lines have emitters spaced evenly within the tubing, so they don't clog or pop off, and are can be spaced 8", 10", 12", and 18" apart. The ones I use are 18" apart. At the moment, I am running sets of irrigation every two weeks for 5-6 hours. The emitters release 1 gallon per hour, so I am putting approximately 5-6 gallons of water per square foot every two weeks over an area of about 100 sq. ft. I have discovered a great website, http://weather.wsu.edu/, where I can track the daily evapotransperation rates for our area here in the Pacific Northwest. Using this information, I can calculate out how many gallons of water the trees need daily, which easily can be extrapolated out to a week.... but I digress. Robert Kourick has a great book all about garden irrigation, where he outlines how to do this math, and he does it well.
Below is a picture of our Hudson's Golden gem in its full glory. Note the almost 4' of extension growth this season! What a marvelous example of an open center tree form.
Below is our Korean Giant Asian Pear which chose to take on a beautiful central leader form. I am quite happy with this tree, and have only had to do minimal training so far. Though it is already 9' tall after its second season! Yikes, good thing it is in the back of the garden!
Finally here is an image of one of the trees that I headed back a second time this winter to inspire better initial growth. I believe it is our Klapp's Favorite, but as you can see, it is making a best second effort.
The only sad news, that is both baffling to me and a bit frustrating is our Green Gage Plum. At this moment, it is near leafless, and has put on no new extension growth this season, despite a great showing in the spring. I believe it is Verticillium Wilt, but have not confirmed this, and a sample twig did not show the characteristic black streaking in the cambium/phloem layer. I am hoping with a bit of compost, and a more judicious spray program next season, it will fully recover.
The next goals for the orchard this fall, is to compost each tree, and re chip the entire area. That will see them through until the spring.
Until next time, whenever that is.
So, below are the latest and greatest of our now two year old baby orchard. Overall I am very happy with its progress, and have two trees which I call challenged, which required heading back again this winter, in order to achieve the first flush of growth that would give us our structural branches. One is our Akane, a relatively new variety that only produced a single, long water sprout last year. The other was our Klapp's Favorite Pear, which did the same thing, bearing only moderate, lop-sided new growth. I am happy to report that both are doing fine and have produced abundant new choices of growth after a second heading cut this winter past.
I was able to expand the diameter of the irrigation tubing around each of the trees by adding an additional 10' to each tree. The picture below gives an idea of what I am talking about.
As you can see, I have tried to get water to as much of the root zone as possible. This size ring with probably be good for the next 3-4 years, at which time I may add another 10-20 feet. These emitter tubing type irrigation lines have emitters spaced evenly within the tubing, so they don't clog or pop off, and are can be spaced 8", 10", 12", and 18" apart. The ones I use are 18" apart. At the moment, I am running sets of irrigation every two weeks for 5-6 hours. The emitters release 1 gallon per hour, so I am putting approximately 5-6 gallons of water per square foot every two weeks over an area of about 100 sq. ft. I have discovered a great website, http://weather.wsu.edu/, where I can track the daily evapotransperation rates for our area here in the Pacific Northwest. Using this information, I can calculate out how many gallons of water the trees need daily, which easily can be extrapolated out to a week.... but I digress. Robert Kourick has a great book all about garden irrigation, where he outlines how to do this math, and he does it well.
Below is a picture of our Hudson's Golden gem in its full glory. Note the almost 4' of extension growth this season! What a marvelous example of an open center tree form.
Below is our Korean Giant Asian Pear which chose to take on a beautiful central leader form. I am quite happy with this tree, and have only had to do minimal training so far. Though it is already 9' tall after its second season! Yikes, good thing it is in the back of the garden!
Finally here is an image of one of the trees that I headed back a second time this winter to inspire better initial growth. I believe it is our Klapp's Favorite, but as you can see, it is making a best second effort.
The only sad news, that is both baffling to me and a bit frustrating is our Green Gage Plum. At this moment, it is near leafless, and has put on no new extension growth this season, despite a great showing in the spring. I believe it is Verticillium Wilt, but have not confirmed this, and a sample twig did not show the characteristic black streaking in the cambium/phloem layer. I am hoping with a bit of compost, and a more judicious spray program next season, it will fully recover.
The next goals for the orchard this fall, is to compost each tree, and re chip the entire area. That will see them through until the spring.
Until next time, whenever that is.
Monday, January 31, 2011
First Pruning of Fruit Trees
Hello folks, been some time since my last entry, just about a year. It's amazing how summer will suck the time away. I have moved from my last position with Portland Community Gardens, and now work with One Green World Nursery (www.onegreenworld.com) tending their specimen plants. It will be an incredible learning experience and setting for fruit culture.
We just finished pruning our fruit trees for this season, their first winter pruning, and I wanted to share some pictures of the finished product. The first season is instrumental in choosing the form your tree will have during its lifetime. I usually choose between open center/vase shaped tree or the central leader/Christmas tree shape. Both try to maximize sunlight to all parts of the tree and if you cannot figure out the shape for your tree, most times your tree will choose for you. There are some who say you have to have a certain shape for certain kinds of trees, but I think it is easier to work with the natural shape of the tree.
Below is a picture of an open center tree form. This is our Hudson's Golden Gem, an Oregon born tree, and note the spreading of the branches by use of stakes and string. This will insure proper branch angle to open the center of the tree, and can be removed later in the season. We also headed back each of the branches about 4-6 inches to a downward facing but to ensure the continued progression of the tree outward.
The next image is for a central leader tree. This is one of our Asian pears, which will have vigorous upright laterals, and strong branches. Note how large the tree is already after only one season. Again we used string and stakes to reinforce form and branch angle, and note the clearly defined central leader.
Okay, the next steps will come in Feb./Mar when we will fertilize the trees for the second time with balanced 8-4-4 pelleted fertilizer. We are hoping for 2-3 feet of extension growth this season.
Until next time, be fruitful!
We just finished pruning our fruit trees for this season, their first winter pruning, and I wanted to share some pictures of the finished product. The first season is instrumental in choosing the form your tree will have during its lifetime. I usually choose between open center/vase shaped tree or the central leader/Christmas tree shape. Both try to maximize sunlight to all parts of the tree and if you cannot figure out the shape for your tree, most times your tree will choose for you. There are some who say you have to have a certain shape for certain kinds of trees, but I think it is easier to work with the natural shape of the tree.
Below is a picture of an open center tree form. This is our Hudson's Golden Gem, an Oregon born tree, and note the spreading of the branches by use of stakes and string. This will insure proper branch angle to open the center of the tree, and can be removed later in the season. We also headed back each of the branches about 4-6 inches to a downward facing but to ensure the continued progression of the tree outward.
The next image is for a central leader tree. This is one of our Asian pears, which will have vigorous upright laterals, and strong branches. Note how large the tree is already after only one season. Again we used string and stakes to reinforce form and branch angle, and note the clearly defined central leader.
Okay, the next steps will come in Feb./Mar when we will fertilize the trees for the second time with balanced 8-4-4 pelleted fertilizer. We are hoping for 2-3 feet of extension growth this season.
Until next time, be fruitful!
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